Sealcoating only works when the surface underneath is ready for it. We need to clean, repair, and prepare the driveway before applying any product if we want a smooth finish that lasts. Skipping these steps can cause the sealcoat to peel, crack, or wear down too quickly.
In this guide, we’ll walk through how to check the surface, clear away dirt and stains, and fix cracks or holes so the sealcoat bonds properly. We’ll also cover how to choose the right products and tools to make the job easier and more effective.
By following these steps, we can protect our driveway from damage, improve its appearance, and extend its life without wasting time or money on shortcuts.
Assessing and Preparing Your Driveway Surface
We need to carefully check the surface of our driveway before sealcoating. Small cracks, potholes, or worn areas can affect how well the sealant sticks and how long it lasts.
Inspecting for Cracks and Potholes
We should start by walking the full length of the driveway and looking closely at the surface. Fine cracks often appear in asphalt driveways as they age. If left untreated, water can enter and cause further damage.
For hairline cracks, a simple crack filler usually works. Wider cracks may need a trowel-grade filler for proper coverage. It helps to clean out loose debris with a wire brush or pressure washer before applying any filler.
Potholes are more serious. They form when water seeps into cracks and weakens the base beneath the asphalt. A pothole should be cleared of loose material, then filled with an asphalt patch product. Compacting the patch firmly makes the repair last longer.
We should also note any uneven areas or raised spots that could affect drainage. These may not need immediate repair but should be considered in our maintenance plan.
Evaluating Driveway Condition
Once cracks and potholes are identified, we need to judge the overall state of the driveway. A driveway with only minor surface wear can usually be sealed without major repairs.
If the surface shows widespread crumbling, deep ruts, or large areas of missing asphalt, sealcoating alone will not solve the problem. In these cases, resurfacing or replacement may be the better option.
We can use a simple checklist to evaluate condition:
- Good: Few small cracks, no potholes, surface mostly smooth
- Fair: Multiple cracks, one or two small potholes, some rough texture
- Poor: Large cracks, several potholes, surface breaking apart
This step helps us decide how much repair work is needed before applying sealant.
Identifying Repair Needs
After inspection and evaluation, we can match the right repair method to each issue. Small cracks call for liquid or rubberized crack filler. Larger cracks may need a cold-pour filler that bonds tightly to the asphalt.
For potholes, an asphalt patch is the standard fix. We should tamp it down with a hand tamper or a heavy board to make it level with the rest of the driveway.
If the driveway has spots where the top layer is flaking away, we can use a patching compound to smooth those areas. This prevents sealant from pooling or peeling.
By identifying these repair needs clearly, we ensure the surface is strong and ready for sealcoating. This step protects the driveway and extends the life of our maintenance work.
Cleaning and Drying the Driveway
We need to clear the surface, wash away stains, and make sure no moisture remains before sealing. Each step helps the asphalt driveway bond well with the sealcoat and prevents weak spots from forming.
Removing Debris and Vegetation
We start by removing loose debris such as leaves, dirt, and small rocks. A stiff broom or leaf blower works well for sweeping across the driveway. Clearing the surface prevents particles from getting trapped under the sealcoat.
Vegetation often grows in cracks or along the edges. We should pull weeds out completely, including the roots, to stop them from pushing back through the sealcoat. For stubborn growth, applying a weed killer a few days before cleaning can help.
It is also useful to scrape out packed dirt or gravel from cracks with a wire brush or a flat tool. This leaves the surface smooth and ready for washing. By doing this, we reduce the chance of bumps or uneven spots after sealing.
Washing With Pressure Washer and Degreaser
Once the driveway is clear of loose material, we wash it with a pressure washer. The high-pressure water removes fine dirt, dust, and small debris that sweeping cannot reach. We should move the spray in overlapping lines to cover the full surface.
Oil and grease stains need special treatment. Using a degreaser helps break down these spots so the sealcoat sticks properly. We apply the degreaser directly to the stain, scrub it with a stiff brush, and rinse it away with the pressure washer.
If we leave oil or fuel stains untreated, the sealcoat may peel or fail to bond in those areas. Taking time to scrub these stains ensures a longer-lasting finish. After washing, the driveway should look clean and free of visible residue.
Ensuring Complete Drying
After washing, the driveway must dry completely before we apply sealcoat. Any moisture trapped under the coating can cause peeling or uneven curing. Drying time depends on weather, but most asphalt driveways need at least 24–48 hours in warm, sunny conditions.
We can speed up drying by sweeping away standing water with a push broom or squeegee. Shaded areas may take longer, so it helps to check for damp spots before sealing.
If rain is in the forecast, we should wait for several dry days to avoid delays. A fully dry surface gives the sealcoat the best chance to bond and last longer.
Repairing Cracks and Potholes
We need to address cracks and potholes before applying any sealcoat. Fixing these issues helps prevent water damage, keeps the surface even, and extends the life of our asphalt driveway.
Filling Small Cracks
Small cracks usually measure less than half an inch wide. If left untreated, they allow water to seep in and cause larger damage over time. We should clean these cracks thoroughly before applying any product.
Start by removing dirt, weeds, or loose pieces of asphalt using a wire brush or screwdriver. A shop vacuum or leaf blower helps clear out fine debris. The cleaner the crack, the better the filler will bond.
Next, we apply a liquid or rubberized crack filler. These products often come in pour bottles or caulking tubes. We should slowly fill the crack from one end to the other, slightly overfilling to allow for settling.
After filling, we smooth the surface with a putty knife or trowel. This step ensures an even finish and prevents bumps when the sealcoat is applied. Small cracks usually dry within a day, depending on temperature and humidity.
Patching Larger Holes
Potholes and wide cracks need a different approach. These areas require stronger materials because they carry more stress from vehicle weight. Using an asphalt patch is the most reliable method.
We start by clearing the pothole of loose gravel, dirt, and broken asphalt. A stiff broom or shovel works well for this step. The hole should be clean and dry before adding patch material.
Next, we pour cold patch asphalt into the hole in layers about 2 inches thick. After each layer, we compact it firmly using a tamper or even a heavy board. Proper compaction prevents the patch from sinking later.
Once the hole is filled to surface level, we smooth the top with a trowel or rake. For deeper potholes, it may take several passes to achieve a solid, level repair.
Allowing Repairs to Cure
Repairs must cure before we move forward with sealcoating. If we rush, the sealcoat may not bond properly, and the filled areas could fail.
Crack fillers usually need 24 hours to dry, while larger asphalt patch repairs may take 48 hours or longer. Weather plays a major role warm, dry conditions speed up curing, while cool or damp conditions slow it down.
We should avoid driving or parking on repaired spots during this time. Heavy weight can push filler out of cracks or cause new depressions in patched potholes.
A simple test is to press lightly with a finger or tool. If the material feels firm and no residue transfers, the repair is ready for sealcoating.
Choosing Sealcoating Products and Application Tools
We need to pick sealants that match our driveway’s surface and choose tools that make the work easier and more effective. Paying attention to product type, application method, and safety gear helps us get a consistent finish and avoid common mistakes.
Selecting the Right Sealant
Not all sealants work the same. We should first decide between asphalt-based sealer and coal tar sealer. Asphalt sealer is more eco-friendly and has less odor, but it may not last as long. Coal tar sealer is tougher against oil and gas spills, though it produces stronger fumes.
We also need to check the product label for coverage rates. Most sealants cover about 250–350 square feet per bucket, but this varies. Knowing the size of our driveway helps us buy the right amount without running short.
It’s also important to look for filler-sealers if the surface has small cracks. These products combine sealing with crack filling, saving us time. For newer driveways, a basic sealcoat without fillers is usually enough.
Gathering Application Tools
The most common tools for applying sealcoat are squeegees and sprayers. Squeegees give us more control and push the sealer into small cracks. Sprayers cover faster but may require back-brushing with a squeegee to even out the coat.
We also need mixing tools. A drill with a paddle attachment or a long wooden stick ensures the sealer is blended before use. Unmixed product can lead to streaks or uneven drying.
Other useful items include:
- 5-gallon buckets for moving sealer in smaller amounts
- Protective gloves to keep hands clean
- Stiff brooms for cleaning before sealing
- Edging brushes for tight corners and borders
Having everything ready before we start prevents delays and wasted product.
Safety Precautions for DIY Sealcoating
Sealcoating requires us to handle chemicals, so safety is important. Coal tar sealers release stronger fumes, so we should wear a respirator mask when applying them. Even asphalt-based sealers need good airflow to avoid breathing in vapors.
We should also wear safety glasses and chemical-resistant gloves. Sealant can splash when pouring or spreading, and it is difficult to remove from skin and clothing.
Working on a dry, calm day reduces risks. Wind can blow sealer onto sidewalks, cars, or even us. Keeping children and pets away until the coat dries is also necessary.
By preparing the right gear and following safety steps, we reduce accidents and make the DIY sealcoating process more manageable.